Chasing Cooler Roads: Our Ride Up the Tourmalet

We decided last minute to escape the heat and head to the Tourmalet. Seven hours driving with the camper, a quick coffee pit stop, and we were on our way. Coffee was non-negotiable. No caffeine, no sanity. Saying goodbye to Label Collective HQ was bittersweet, but the road was calling.

About 150 kilometres in, I was already feeling the heat creeping in. Ekva went for a quick pee session while I grabbed another coffee, then back on the road. The weather looked rough ahead, but that’s part of the adventure, right?

Crossing into France, the scenery shifted instantly. Just coming through a huge tunnel, I caught my breath. Cooler air, rugged mountains. How can you not love it? We found a spot to camp for the night surrounded by nature. It’s always a puzzle figuring out how to fit two bikes and a bed in a camper, but we stacked the wheels up front and squeezed the bikes on the seats. Windows covered, camper set for the night.

Waking up wasn’t perfect. Cows were clanging bells nearby, and I had a headache from restless sleep. But the sunrise made it all worth it. The sun was out, the air fresh, and even with a rough night, I was ready to hit the road.

We headed down to the little town of Saint-Marie-de-Campan, which I keep mixing up, but it’s the gateway to the climb. Parking sorted for the night, and then it was time to tackle the climb. Clouds hung low, and rain jackets were ready just in case.

Surprisingly, the sun came out as we started. That was a good sign. The road looked mostly yellow on the Hammerhead app, so no big red warnings. Manageable. But I wasn’t taking it easy yet.

The climb started steady, but soon the sweat was dripping. I wasn’t sure whether to ditch my base layer or keep it on. People do both, but with altitude coming, better safe than sorry. Then, unexpected roadworks slowed us briefly, but nothing major.

The famous Tourmalet tunnel came into view. You usually only see this from helicopters, so riding through it felt special. Smooth tarmac, echoing walls. It’s a different vibe.

We passed a small ski resort town and soaked in the views. The altitude was definitely hitting. Lungs felt tighter, heart rate climbing. Still, the scenery was breathtaking. Flags and tributes to riders decorated the road. It’s a climb rich in history and cycling lore.

Then came the hairpins. They never get easier. Legs burning, heart pounding, but the summit was in sight. The wind greeted us at the top, biting and cold. I was cooked. Ready for a beer and a rest.

At the summit, a cold bottle of Coke hit the spot perfectly. Sometimes simple pleasures are the best reward. The descent was fast and fun, though we got held up behind a lorry for a bit. Nice of the driver to let us pass when possible.

Brakes were making some scary noises, so looks like a mechanic visit is on the cards. Still, the whole day was worth it. The climb, the views, the challenge.

Back at the camper, legs feeling like tombstones but heart full. That’s cycling for you. Thanks for coming along. Ciao!